The linen shift is the foundation. It protects the woolen garments from body soil and is easy to wash.
Dressing historically is about function. The basic rule is simple: Linen closest to the skin, wool on top. The linen transports moisture away and cools, while the wool warms and resists moisture. For a complete costume, you need the invisible base.
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The kirtle or middle dress in wool provides warmth and shows your status through the choice of color.
The outer dress or coat protects against the elements. In the late Middle Ages, this is where you attach your detachable sleeves to vary your look.

The Viking Age (c. 793–1066): The Hangerock
The most iconic garment for the Viking Age woman is the hangerock. It is one of the few well-documented Viking Age garments that occurs throughout Scandinavia in several different styles. It is always worn over a shift and often fastened with beautiful brooches. This was a practical costume for an active life, often made of wool or linen.
The Middle Ages (c. 1050–1350): The Timeless Kirtle
During the Middle Ages, the kirtle was the most common garment. All outer garments at this time were made of wool, which functioned as the “functional material” of the time as it warms even when it gets damp. The fashion was spacious with sewn-in gussets for freedom of movement. A simple kirtle is a perfect basic model that, with the right accessories, fits throughout the Middle Ages.
Senmedeltiden (ca 1350–1500): Det Skräddade Modet
During the later part of the Middle Ages, fashion became more advanced. The garments became tighter and showed the body’s shapes more clearly – hence the name Cotehardie which stands for “daring cotte” (kirtle). To achieve the tight fit, lacing or long rows of buttons were required, which became an important fashion detail in itself.
The Middle Ages (c. 1100–1500):
In the 14th century, the sleeveless overdress, the Surcote, became popular – sometimes with deep armholes called “hell windows”. During the 15th century, the smart fashion with detachable sleeves also arrived. By changing sleeves, a woman could completely change her look and show status, an economical way to always be fashionable.

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